A church headquarters that dressed up as a castle
The reason a "mall" ended up inside a landmark is worth telling. The building is Church House — the headquarters of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland — and it opened in 1905, at the start of that June's General Assembly week. It stands on the site of the old Fisherwick Presbyterian Church, whose congregation gave up their city-centre plot and moved out to the Malone Road so the church could build its grand new home here. The bill came to around £74,000, a serious sum at the time.
The architects, Young & Mackenzie, are said to have modelled the design on a Scottish baronial castle, and it shows: turrets, carved stonework and a 40-metre clock tower that still stands out against the modern city centre. The tower holds what's described as Belfast's only peal of 12 bells, said to chime hymns and carols on the hour — and the turret clock is reckoned to have been the first in Britain to use electricity to drive the time and the chimes. Look up as you pass and you'll spot the carved datestone: "Church House and Assembly Hall, 1905".
Inside is an oval assembly hall built to seat around 1,300 for the church's yearly gathering. The building has taken a knock or two over the years — it was reopened in 1992 after a refurbishment, and it was around then that the ground floor was turned over to retail as the Spires shopping mall, a little arcade of speciality shops with a café. That chapter ran until 2017, when the church closed the shops to reclaim the space for its Assembly Buildings conference and exhibition centre.
So the shops are a closed chapter — but the building carries on doing what it was built for, and it's still one of the more characterful things to look up at on a walk through Belfast city centre. Free, five minutes, and a genuine slice of the city's story.